The Shampoo Debate

A reader asked me,

"My cousin (hairdresser) told me that Pantene Pro-V gives your hair shine by coating it with a thin layer of wax which is unhealthy. Is this true?"

This is an important question, and a popular subject of debate. Do the less-expensive shampoos, such as Pantene, include ingredients that simulate healthy hair without actually helping? And do these additives damage your hair even further?

After studying the ingredients listed on my bottle of shampoo, I have discovered the following:

The two ingredients that "coat" your hair with anything are Dimethicone and Panthenol.

Panthenol

It's a provitamin that, when absorbed into your body, is converted to Vitamin B5. Hair experts advise the use of shampoos containing Panthenol because hair that absorbs it becomes stronger with more body. It also lubricates your hair to make it smoother, and helps to seal the pores to retain moisture. And of course, Panthenol is water soluble, which means any excess is washed out of your hair instead of being left behind as a residue. Overall, this stuff is good for your hair.

Dimethicone

This is the controversial stuff. It's a silicone with a variety of applications, such as breast implants, cosmetics, Silly Putty, and of course, shampoo and conditioners. In cosmetics and moisturizing lotions, dimethicone seals the skin with a film to protect it from corrosion and to condition it. Similarly, in hair products dimethicone seals the hair shafts with a film to lock in moisture.

One argument against Dimethicone is that by coating your hair it disguises the actual condition of your hair, making it seem smooth when you're really only feeling the coating. The counter to this is that since the coating is holding in water, without it your hair would be drier. There's no conclusive argument either way yet, so it's really a matter of personal preference. However, salon brands don't contain Dimethicone, which does mean that it may not be the best shampoo ingredient.

If you can't afford salon shampoos every (other) day, but you're afraid of Dimethicone coating your hair, here's an idea. Use Pantene as your regular shampoo, but then use a salon quality deep-cleansing shampoo about once every week or two just to purge your hair of any buildup. Actually, I recommend this especially if you use hair products every day, since putties can build up over time.

Conclusion

Pantene, and other consumer-level shampoos, do contain Dimethicone which coats the hair. While it is not directly damaging to your hair, many people dislike using a product that leaves any sort of coating on your hair, since if anything, it is your conditioner that coats your hair. Salon-quality shampoos do not contain Dimethicone, but the cost-volume ratio makes it impractical for the average-income person.