Hive Hair Spa - Asuka

My friend got her hair permed at Hive Hair Spa the other day with Asuka, so here's some of her comments:

Like usual, service was performed with a smile. Asuka is very friendly, and will do her best to make you happy.

Of course, this all starts with the consultation. Unlike many stylists these days, Asuka actually takes the time to listen to what you want and discuss it with you. This doesn't mean starting right away cutting your hair to what you said, but actually explaining what she can do or can't do with your hair. After all, it's better for your stylist to explain the limitations of your face/hair than to disappoint you.

For example, my friend was getting her hair permed, and Asuka explained that since she'd never had her hair chemically treated before, there was a chance that the perm wouldn't turn out as curly as they were aiming for.

After the perm was done (some 3 hours later), Asuka also took the time to explain how to care for her newly permed hair, as well as her hair in general.

If Jun isn't back the next time I go back to Vancouver, I'll definitely give Asuka a chance with my hair. And you should, too!

On straightening and irons

So, I'm personally against straightening irons, but that's a combination of my:

1) Naturalist approach to hair (match your style to your hair, not the other way around)

2) Dislike for the amount of time straightening takes (to do it properly)

3) Various burn scars from irons (kidding, there are no visible scars, just painful memories)

4) Damaged hair

But I know that many of you will continue to straighten your hair to achieve "that look," so at the least, I will share my advice with you.

1. Never use full power / maximum temperature. You always want to be a little under. If your iron goes from 0 to 10, set it at 8. Higher heat will straighten your hair faster, but it's also more damaging. Instead, use a lower setting and take a little more time. If you have a fancy straightener with a digital temp. read, set it to no more than 95 degreees celsius.
2. I was never much for heat protectant spray, but from what I've heard they actually do a good job of protecting your hair, so you may want to give it a try if you straighten daily.
3. Know your equipment. A salon-quality straightener (~$200) will have full ceramic plates and heats up much more quickly, while a consumer level (~$30) will have ceramic-coated plates that are much less effective at heat distribution. When your ceramic coating starts to chip off, it's time for a new straightener. Stay away from anything else altogether (ie uncoated steel plates).
4. Do not straighten wet hair unless your straightener has steam vents. It will say on the box, "steam vents allow for usage on wet or dry hair" or something like it. If it doesn't have steam vents and you use it on wet hair, your hair will burn (due to the steam trapped between the plates... along with your hair).
5. Always wipe the plates down with a towel after use. Residue left on the plates after use (i.e. hair oils, product) will dry up and burn the next time you use your iron. This may burn your hair.
6. In general, it's best to straighten only freshly-washed hair. Since oil heats to a very high temperature (think deep-fryer), straightening dirty hair will superheat the oil in your hair and can damage it (your hair, that is).
7. If (and I don't recommend it) you choose to use your iron with product in your hair, please do not use a $200 iron. Use a $20 iron. It's overall safer for your hair and for your iron.

And now, a video tutorial! Not by me, but by a colleague over at style06.com

(But you should go here to watch the video, because my blog doesn't accommodate videos very well)

The Shampoo Debate

A reader asked me,

"My cousin (hairdresser) told me that Pantene Pro-V gives your hair shine by coating it with a thin layer of wax which is unhealthy. Is this true?"

This is an important question, and a popular subject of debate. Do the less-expensive shampoos, such as Pantene, include ingredients that simulate healthy hair without actually helping? And do these additives damage your hair even further?

After studying the ingredients listed on my bottle of shampoo, I have discovered the following:

The two ingredients that "coat" your hair with anything are Dimethicone and Panthenol.

Panthenol

It's a provitamin that, when absorbed into your body, is converted to Vitamin B5. Hair experts advise the use of shampoos containing Panthenol because hair that absorbs it becomes stronger with more body. It also lubricates your hair to make it smoother, and helps to seal the pores to retain moisture. And of course, Panthenol is water soluble, which means any excess is washed out of your hair instead of being left behind as a residue. Overall, this stuff is good for your hair.

Dimethicone

This is the controversial stuff. It's a silicone with a variety of applications, such as breast implants, cosmetics, Silly Putty, and of course, shampoo and conditioners. In cosmetics and moisturizing lotions, dimethicone seals the skin with a film to protect it from corrosion and to condition it. Similarly, in hair products dimethicone seals the hair shafts with a film to lock in moisture.

One argument against Dimethicone is that by coating your hair it disguises the actual condition of your hair, making it seem smooth when you're really only feeling the coating. The counter to this is that since the coating is holding in water, without it your hair would be drier. There's no conclusive argument either way yet, so it's really a matter of personal preference. However, salon brands don't contain Dimethicone, which does mean that it may not be the best shampoo ingredient.

If you can't afford salon shampoos every (other) day, but you're afraid of Dimethicone coating your hair, here's an idea. Use Pantene as your regular shampoo, but then use a salon quality deep-cleansing shampoo about once every week or two just to purge your hair of any buildup. Actually, I recommend this especially if you use hair products every day, since putties can build up over time.

Conclusion

Pantene, and other consumer-level shampoos, do contain Dimethicone which coats the hair. While it is not directly damaging to your hair, many people dislike using a product that leaves any sort of coating on your hair, since if anything, it is your conditioner that coats your hair. Salon-quality shampoos do not contain Dimethicone, but the cost-volume ratio makes it impractical for the average-income person.

Where to Buy Gatsby in LA

I went to the Marukai in Little Tokyo on Sunday and just so you know, the price of Gatsby has gone up (yet again). Moving rubber sells for $9.48 +tax, and they carry pink, yellow, green, orange, and purple. Perfect Hold Wax short and medium (red and white) is sold for about $8.50, and the Gatsby Styling Wax much like this one but in blue and black varieties sell for $8.50 as well.

Did you know that you can order certain Gatsby products from Style06.com? For $13 USD + $7 shipping, you can get it shipped to anywhere in the world! If you live in some remote country where Gatsby is not readily available, this may be your best chance to get your hands on the stuff!

Got2b Playful Texturizing Pomade

First Impression

It's relatively cheap: $3.99 plus tax at London Drugs on sale ($6.49 regular price). At 57 grams it's a bit less than a Gatsby moving rubber, but it's still decently sized. It has a scent reminiscent of cream soda, but it's very, very subtle unless you stick your nose into the jar.

The Review

Playful pomade is very light--when you first look/touch it, you'll notice that it's very foamy, almost like a thick mousse. This is to give your hair the "playful" look, obviously, since by adding air into your hair, you can add volume. This also makes the jar look deceptively larger than the total value of its contents. But, being light also makes your hair feel cleaner than using Gatsby Moving Rubber, and is also much easier to wash out.

Unfortunately, being light also decreases its effectiveness on Asian hair. Since caucasian hair usually has its own waves, this product helps to enhance them. For Asians with typical flat, lackluster hair, however, this pomade does not provide the necessary strength or hold to create or maintain the desired hairstyles. Spikes and/or points of any kind are futile, because the tips of your hair will not stick together. This does work well for a tousled, messy look, but without hairspray it just doesn't have the strength to last the day.

Conclusion

It's cheap and it smells nice, but other than that it doesn't have much going for it from an Asian's perspective. Fun to collect, better choice than the Bedhead Texturizing Paste if only because it's a fraction of the cost, but again definitely not essential.

If you do decide to try it, use it on damp hair first. It's a wet hair product, which means it won't slip out of damp hair like Gatsby Moving Rubber would. Put it in damp (not wet) hair, and then blowdry your hair into shape. Then apply more pomade for more definition. Finish with strong-hold hairspray, but preferably one with flexibility.

Tipping and Stuff

I noticed that one person came across my blog with the google search "chura what wax"

If this person is referring to the watermelon-scented wax, that would be the Bedhead Texturizing Paste that I in fact have already reviewed for this blog. See it here.

Also, Hive Hair Spa has updated their website. It now includes a policy page, as well as the promised promotions page. The August Promotion is 20% off Hot Perm (aka Digital Perm). A hot perm (which includes haircut) normally costs $200, so with 20% off that comes out to $160 +tax and tips.

Speaking of tips, how much should you tip your stylist?

If it's your first time with that stylist, 10% is good. Of course, if you don't like the haircut or you feel that they cut against your wishes, you can tip less. And if you absolutely love your haircut, you can always tip more. If you keep going back to the same stylist and your haircuts come out better and better each time, you should definitely increase your tippage, since your stylist obviously remembers you and is paying attention to how your hair is growing.

In terms of numerical values, $3-4 on your first time is decent, $5+ is fair after a few haircuts. This is student pricing, mind you. If you walk in to the salon in your $3000 business suit, you should probably tip a little higher so you don't come across as cheap.

And of course, if you don't give the tips to your stylist directly (which I usually don't do, it's kinda awkward handing over cash like that), just add it to the cost of your cut when you pay and make sure to tell the receptionist that the extra is for your stylist (and use his/her name to avoid any misunderstanding). You don't want the receptionist to pocket your stylist's hard-earned tips!!

Gatsby Brown

Where to find Gatsby in Richmond, BC:

Osaka supermarket at Yaohan no longer carries Gatsby moving rubber products.

There's a beauty boutique at Aberdeen on the first floor that carries the full line of Gatsby hair products as well as spray deodorant and hair dye. However, a regular size 80g jar of moving rubber costs $19.99. However, they also carry the new technical design clay (the small black jar) that is the size of a travel size Gatsby but also at $19.99. And newest of all is brown Gatsby, which comes in a 15 gram jar at $12.99. This stuff is just used to touch up your hair and it leaves a brown tint to your hair (DIY highlights). I haven't actually used it myself, though. I'll wait and see if I can get it cheaper in LA.